Your vehicle, do what you think is right, but this has worked for me for going on 30 years now. I use the stronger solution mainly for the additional corrosion inhibitors, I don’t really need the additional freeze protection.īTW, I go at least 5 years between changes now, sometimes more (5 and a 1/2) and so far have not had the coolant show any signs of breakdown. LongLife and DEX-COOL bright yellow-orange clear liquid. Havoline and DEX-COOL a nasty brownish clear liquid. I also no longer worry about a little old residual coolant in the system, I drain the block and the radiator, put the drain plugs back in and refill with a 2:1 ratio of antifreeze and distilled water. I just did the same here in the garage - 2 cups of Havoline (Texaco) green coolant, 1 cup each of DEX-COOL and the newer Prestone LongLife bright yellow coolant. Now I use the new universal longlife coolants and haven’t had a problem with them. With ethylene Glycol or Green coolant, if spilled it is poison to any. The formula is such that if it is exposed to air, it neutralize itself. But DexCool chemistry behind DexCool is such that it will not harm the environment if there is an accident or leakage. I have used Dexcool in both GM cars and even in our Honda and my Nissan truck with no problems. DexCool is a required coolant in most all GM vehicles after 1995, if I'm not wrong. I stopped using flushes after that and have had very few problems with cooling systems since then. I was talking to her on the phone and mentioned it, she told me that she had just had all new hoses put on it just before she sold it to me. Within a month I had to replace the water pump and every hose in the system. It took awhile to make the connection, but my mother sold me her car and I did the whole routine. There are rumors that mixing DEX-COOL with standard green (non-OAT) coolant causes a chemical reaction that produces sludge in the cooling. Mixing dex cool with 'normal' anti freeze wont turn anything to acid, sludge up your radiator, or anything like that. After getting done, within a month or two I would start having problems with water pump leaks and hoses failing. To set the record straight and to get rid of all the FUD. Every time I bought another car, I would do a major maintenance on it, oil, all fluids and a radiator flush with new coolant. Do it all over in two years and you'll be set.I haven’t used a chemical flush in about 30 years now, but back when I did, I was in the Navy and had a family to support, and that meant that I could only afford used cars, and older ones at that.
Add about 2 gallons of conventional green coolant and about 2 gallons of distilled water. Remove the lower hose and use compressed air to blow the rest out. After about five minutes the whole system will be pure water. Just remove one of your heater hoses, connect the water hose and turn the vlave on. You do not need to disassemble the motor to flush it all out. You'll also notice the brown crap etched at the top. Just open your coolant bottle and smell the stuff. Some may say Dex-Cool is fine for 5 years or 150K miles but in the real world Dex-Cool tends to break down at the same rate of conventional coolant, perhaps even sooner in some cases. I've seen leaking water pump gaskets on the LSx motors that had the same collapsed plastic barrier. Some of these were 30K mile motors less than 2 years old.
I've personally seen and repaired numerous leaking intake manifold gaskets on the 3.1/3.4/3.8/4.3/5.0/5.7 GM engines due to Dex-Cool eating away at the plastic intake gasket barrier.
Just Google Dex-Cool and you'll come up with various articles pertaining to the destructive things that Dex-Cool does. years/50,000 miles that was typical with the old green stuff. Dex-Cool is an ethylene glycol coolant that was introduced in late 1995 with the 1996 model year vehicles produced by General Motors. Running convential green coolant will not hurt a GM vehicle that originallly had Dex-Cool in it. Cars born with green coolant shouldn't be changed to orange.
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